Have you ever found a vintage piece and hesitated to buy it because the brass or metal looks scratched, discolored, or tarnished? We all have! But don’t hesitate. Cleaning vintage metals is actually fairly easy, and totally worth it. In fact, you can save a lot of money by buying the more junky pieces and restoring them yourself at home.
I’ve seen some people just take a can of spray paint to pieces, and that’s fine if your metal is beyond repair but you still cant live without it, but most of the time that isn’t the case. Besides, you’ll never get a true shine like you would with real metal. Instead of reaching for the spray paint, reach for a rag and some polish and see what you reveal.
I got this set of 50s drawer pulls on Etsy for a really great price. At first glance they’re junk, but if you’ve ever restored metals you’d see the treasure underneath that tarnish and “scratches” immediately.
What you need is a metal polish product, like Brasso, and an old rag or two. Oh and some gloves.
Cover the brass in metal polish and rub into the metal.
Then use a soft cloth to buff and massage the metal, you’ll notice black and green residue coming off on your cloth. That’s the tarnish! Keep going.Keep polishing until there is no more residue coming off on to your cloth and the metal is sparkling new. Reapply more product if needed. This can take awhile depending on how tarnished your pieces are, but be patient.
Once all the tarnish is removed, give it a nice little polish with a clean cloth to remove any remaining residue or product.
Tada!! Good as new. Now put down the paint and pick up the polish!
The only thing that really bothered me about my new kitchen was the way the refrigerator looked in the space.
Now don’t get me wrong it’s a nice brand new refrigerator, but the way the side of it created a big black rectangle in in the middle of everything bothered me.
I bought a peel and stick wallpaper a couple of years ago with the intention of covering my old refrigerator, but never got around to it. Luckily I found the paper when I was unpacking and since I’m still renting I decided to put it to use!
I like the shape of the refrigerator door and I don’t mind the stainless, so I decided to only apply the wall paper to the sides and top to cover all the black. I was also inspired by the two-toned refrigerators that were popular back in the day.
All I had to do was pull out the refrigerator and apply the peel and stick the paper, carefully matching the seams and making sure to smooth out any air bubbles. This type of paper is very easy to work with and made the job extremely simple.
To finish off the edges I used a thin washi tape in the same color and similar pattern. This gave it a more finished look and helped make sure all of my edges were properly secured.
What an improvement! The refrigerator no longer stands out like a sore thumb and adds a nice subtle color and more retro flair to the space. It also gives it a nice smooth texture which makes it way easier to clean than the bumpy texture that it had before. I love it!
Now I’m going to use a different peel and stick wallpaper to cover that back wall as well. Stay tuned!
Whenever I’m thinking about a new design concept for a room, I always make an inspiration board. I go online and save images of pieces I like, and then I see how I can put them together in a room. I do this either by using Pinterest or collage tools like Polyvore. Once I have an initial concept, I can go back and see where my favorite items are from, or I can keep a look out for similar pieces at thrift stores and flea markets.
One of my new favorite decor websites is Chairish. It’s a site where you can buy and sell all kinds of furniture and decor. They have a huge selection of unique vintage and mid-century modern items, from sofas to barware. This makes it easy to go through and pick and piece your favorite items. Then you can mix and match and see what sticks. Here are a few room concepts that I’ve been playing around with.
Hollywood Regency Midcentury Style – This is my kind of style. Mixing clean modern lines with opulent pieces is my favorite. Pops of color with gold, always! I’d put a fur rug down under that amazing table and immediately invite my friends over for cocktails and fondue.
Entry Way Decor – Entry ways need to have welcoming style and function. It’s also the first impression you get when entering your home. Here you see I added good storage with this green cabinet, a nice lamp for light, a comfortable chair to sit and put shoes on, and a lucite coat hanger.
Colorful Eclectic Living Room – With a great rug and some cool tchotchkes to pull it together, this would make a super fun and comfortable room to hang out in. Mis-matching color is the perfect way to add a lot of style in a small room and on a small budget. This color palette has super retro vibes.
All of these items are available from Chairish. I want them allllll, especially those green chairs. See! Told you they have some good stuff. Hope this helps with your vision board needs like it has with mine!
I was shopping for lamps for my living room and couldn’t find anything in the right size or price. This was around the time I decided to get a new sofa and was on a serious budget to finish off the rest of the room. I desperately needed end tables and lamps to frame said sofa, and didn’t want to go broke over it, so I was determined to find something great for as little investment as possible. I shopped and shopped, until I stumbled into a random Ross and checked out their home decor section. Ross is pretty awesome for budget pieces and it’s a great place to find things to fix up or hack.
I found lamps. Well, the size and the $15 price tag were right, and I liked the artichoke shape, but the finish and the shade were a big NO for me. Easy fix though! I bought them, and then stopped at the hardware store for a couple of cans of gloss white spray paint. I also snagged new shades at Ross for $4.
Look at what a difference a little spray paint made. They’re so chic now. Totally Jonathan Adler or something, and they go with my living room PERFECTLY. I don’t think I could have found anything more perfect, especially for under $20 per lamp.
My #1 budget decorating tip is to take a look at what you do like and try to figure out how to change what you don’t like. It can be as easy as a can of spray paint.
It’s Christmas Eve Eve! You’re probably doing last minute shopping and wrapping your gifts as fast as you can. Since I’m doing the same, I figured I’d put up this last minute wrapping tutorial and idea. I kept it simple this year with vintage looking paper from Rifle Paper Co., twine, and some cute holly toppers I made with left over felt from my felt tree tutorial.
I like to use only 3 pieces of tape (1 on bottom, 1 on each side) for a perfectly wrapped package that is easy to open. Everyone asks how I wrap so neatly. Well, here’s how I do it.
One piece of tape on the bottom to hold the paper close. Then I fold the sides in. Then fold the flaps down and tape closed. If your package is flatter just fold the pointy parts in like so.
I used twine to embellish with a simple bow.
For a little something extra I used left over felt to make holly. I just used pinking sheers to cut leaf shapes and red felt balls. Glued them together with hot glue and stuck them to my packages with double sided tape.
Alright, guys. This HOHOHO is ready for Christmas!
There’s something about dealing with cast iron cookware that has always been very daunting to me. It always seemed like so much. The seasoning, the cleaning and caring for it. It all seemed overwhelming. But, so many swear by it, and claim that everyone should have one in their kitchen. So, I decided to conquer those fears and take cast iron head on. Now, of course by now you might have noticed we’re not like a normal household around here. Any reasonable person would have gone and bought a cast iron skillet at their local store, maybe looked up how to do some extra seasoning on it, and gone on with their lives. But we’re The Melos! I had to go and find an old, rusty cast iron pan that I could rehab and bring back to its glory days! Otherwise, where’s the fun? So I did just that.
After searching on Craigslist for a couple of weeks, I didn’t find the standard 10″ Deep Skillet that I had in mind. Ok, lies, I found one but it was in South Pasadena, and at that point I wasn’t committed enough to this project to get on the 110, and risk my life to get the skillet. But I did find something that I think is even better! I found this handy dutch oven/griddle pan combo, it was around the corner in West Hollywood, and I haggled it down to $15, can’t beat that. I liked this piece because it was rusty but not too rusty, it just needed a bit of care. And so the process of bringing it back to life began.
The first thing I learned about reconditioning rusty cast iron pans is that, there’s more than one way to do it. So after a lot of YouTube watching, and Google finding, I narrowed down the methods I wanted to try, and maybe even combine.
The first method that really caught my interest was the Salt and Potato scrub. It’s just that: you take your dry, rusty pan, you sprinkle a liberal amount of salt on it (I use Kosher, YouTube uses table), and you use a potato cut in half as your scrubber. This method worked well. It did require a lot of elbow grease, which was expected. It did get a lot of the surface rust out, and from what I’ve read, after several treatments, it gets all of the rust out. However, I still had our second method to try. Vinegar and a ball of foil. Yes, a ball of foil. Apparently, the ball of foil is more abrasive than steel wool, so it gets the job done. And guess what? This was my most favorite way of cleaning this thing. The trick is to let your pan soak in vinegar, or a vinegar/water mix, which I kept heavy on the vinegar. For how long? Who knows. Sometimes I let it soak for 10 – 15 minutes, others for 5. But the more I did it, the more rust came out, and I even was able to get rid of some nasty pitting. At one point I threw salt in with the vinegar, and scrubbed it with the foil, but to be honest, I can’t say that I noticed a huge difference. Once all the rust and nastiness was off, I gave it a good rinse in hot water with a small amount of dish soap, and made sure it was completely dry. Completely dry is key here, to avoid it rusting all over again.
So now it was time to season the cast iron. Seasoning is the process of coating your cast iron to begin building the layers that will eventually make it super slick and naturally non-stick. The naturally non-stick part is very important in all of this because Krys has an irrational fear of the Teflon Flu, and thus, no Teflon is allowed in the Melo household. The seasoning had always been the most overwhelming part for me, so I was excited and nervous to try it out. My first resource for information on how to do this was of course, Alton Brown. He’s my culinary hero and God. He has taught me virtually everything I know about cooking and food. At first, I was surprised to not find any information from him readily available on seasoning cast iron. But I wasn’t giving up, so after much Googling, I found an old chat with him from 2000, in which he suggested seasoning cast iron by coating it with Crisco, and leaving it in the oven at 350 degrees for an hour. Easy enough! This is where things get really sad, everyone. The results were disappointing to say the least. My hero had let me down! The pans just didn’t look black enough, not cast iron-y enough, and after doing the fried egg test, they weren’t up to par.
To be fair, his advice was probably geared to store-bought pre-seasoned pans. So after going through the grieving process, I did some more research on the subject. And I found a way that made a lof sense for me. The basic concept is this: Heat the pans in an oven preheated to 550 degrees for 30 minutes. VERY CAREFULLY remove the pans from the oven, and rub with a paper towel soaked in really good extra virgin olive oil. I used kitchen tongs to avoid getting my hands so close to the really, really hot pan, because I’m notoriously prone to injury. Once you coat it, turn the oven off, and return pans to the oven with the door cracked for about 10 minutes. I then lightly wiped off any extra oil with a clean (dry) paper towel, again using kitchen tongs, and returned to the oven (which is off, but still hot), and let it sit there for about 30 minutes. Then, I removed them and let them cool. Apparently really hot heat, with a fat that has a really low smoke point does really great things for something called polymerization. Alls I know is that MAGICAL THINGS HAPPENED! The pans came out beautifully black and shiny, like cast iron is supposed to look like! So much better than my first try!
Something to note about that low smoke point/really high heat situation. Our apartment got REALLY smoky when I did this. I mean, the dogs were ready to jump off the balcony and save themselves. So please make sure you have proper ventilation.
Once these bad boys had cooled it was time for the good ole’ fried egg test. This is the part where you test your work to see how well you’ve done. The goal here is to drop some butter on your pan, fry the egg, and have it not stick. In fact, you want the egg to glide around the pan with ease. This time it was a complete success!
Now I’m desperately searching for some cast iron recipes, since the more I use this, the more well seasoned it will become. Do you have any to share?
Unfortunately I didn’t get as much done as I planned during the weekend. I’ve been a bit under the weather causing everything on my to-do list to be pushed back. I’ll hopefully be working on some dining room projects later this week, but for today’s post I’m going to answer some readers’ questions about paint brushes!
Q: Do I need different brushes for different types of paints?
A: Yes! Technically. Natural brushes are recommended for oil-based paints while synthetic brushes are recommended for latex and water based paints. I use brushes labeled for ‘ALL TYPES’ of paints. My personal favorite brand is Purdy.
Q: Why do I keep getting loose bristles in my paint?
A: My best advice for this is to invest in a really good quality brush. Most people think that all brushes are the same and try to be thrifty with their tools. They end up shelling out more money trying to continuously replace cheap brushes, until they get frustrated enough to start investing in better quality tools. A good quality brush set can literally last you years if taken care of and cleaned properly after each use. Your local hardware store should have examples of different quality levels. Buy the best you can for your budget!
Q: How do I clean my brushes? I’m having a hard time getting the paint out.
A: This depends on the type of paint you used. Latex and water based paints can be washed out of brushes using simple soap and water, which is why I like using them. They can be washed out in a bucket or sink and rinsed thoroughly with warm water. I use a plastic detail brush or old toothbrush to get any dry paint pieces out. You can also soak your brushes in hot vinegar to remove old stubborn paint. Let hang to dry, cover, and store.
Brushes used for oil based paints need to be cleaned with turpentine or mineral spirits. This is a much more hazardous and tedious clean up process. Swish brushes around in the cleaning solution until all paint is removed and allow to dry thoroughly in a well ventilated area. Turpentine and mineral spirits have irritating fumes and CANNOT be poured down drains. This goes for the paint as well. Dirty turpentine and mineral spirits can be stored in jars and taken to an appropriate hazardous waste center. Please refer to the instructions on these products for proper disposal.
Q: My brush keeps drying between coats. Should I leave it sitting in the paint?
A: My answer would be probably be no to letting it sit in the paint. It makes cleaning your brush harder because it had time to absorb so much extra paint. I find the best thing for me is to cover the bristles to keep them from drying out. Wrap the bristles in a piece of plastic wrap, a sandwich baggy, or even a piece of foil for longer breaks. For shorter breaks, between 10-15 minutes, I simply use a wet paper towel.
Q: How do you recommend storing paint brushes?
A: A lot of brushes come with a plastic or paper cover. Keep those! They will protect your bristles from damage and dust. If for some reason yours didn’t or you lost them, use the same materials I mentioned in the last question. Use foil, sandwich baggies, or even DIY a new cover out of lightweight cardboard. Just make sure you keep those delicate bristles covered! Protect them from moisture and weather by storing in plastic storage boxes or set aside a drawer in your home.